Two thoughts struck me while I was talking with Stacey Adams-Zier about her story, "A Chesapeake Thanksgiving," inside the debut edition of Chesapeake Bay Flavor magazine.
First: I will never, ever understand sauerkraut at Thanksgiving, even being the good German that I am.
Second: I have lived by the Chesapeake Bay for 21 years, and I have never had oyster stuffing.
Since some will accuse me of being stubborn - without reason, of course - I don't see changing my mind on the pickled cabbage point. Oyster stuffing, however, seemed worth investigating.
I turned to Chris Grava, kitchen coordinator for Annapolis Seafood Markets, for some answers.
The tradition of oyster stuffing is alive and well in Anne Arundel County, Chris says.
"Every year we have a really big push for oysters by the pint around the holidays. Most of those are used for oyster stuffing or oyster stew."
Annapolis Seafood Markets also has its own special version of oyster stuffing that is available around the holidays, "and there is quite a demand for that, too," Chris says.
"Oyster stuffing is a Maryland tradition," he adds. "With the bay right here, it is just the most natural thing that someone wanted to make oysters an integral part of Thanksgiving. It's who we are."
Turns out Chris is also a transplant to this area, and started out just as skeptical as I about oyster stuffing. But working with the Annapolis Seafood Markets, "I kinda just fell into it," he admits.
What about those who don't like oysters? Are they left without stuffing for their turkey?
"If you've never tried it, you should at least give it a try. It is really something that most people will enjoy," Chris assures. He relates how he snuck some oyster stuffing onto the plate of his very picky brother the first year he went home for the holidays. "He loved it. He was certainly surprised to find there were oysters in it, but he really liked the flavor."Chris explains that oyster stuffing can be a very personal thing. "Everybody has their own spin to it, their own tweak."
Some chefs use hot sauce for a bit of heat, he says. Some steer clear of the more traditional poultry seasoning and mace in favor of herbs like tarragon and thyme.
Even the type of oyster used is important, Chris says. "It can be more salty to almost fruity." Fans of a saltier flavor should purchase Chincoteague oysters, he says. Local oysters lend a fruity flavor.
Chris recommends using the smaller selects in stuffing.
The bread also can make a difference. "Of course, you want to use white bread, because you don't want to drown out the flavor with something like a pumpernickel or rye," he says, adding that Annapolis Seafood Markets uses leftover baguettes in its version. "It gives things a little more texture."
I asked Chris the burning question that has always come to mind when someone mentions oyster stuffing: Why waste good oysters in a stuffing?
A big smile lit his face. "With Thanksgiving, you've got to have a turkey. So stuffing really becomes one of those centerpiece items.
"Oyster stuffing shows how much you care about those sharing the meal with you. It shows you will go the extra mile for the ones you love."
Of course, Chris believes seafood should play even more of a role in holiday entertaining. Crab cakes, crab balls and shrimp are always popular choices for appetizers. "Oysters on the half-shell are wonderful too, if you don't have too many guests."
Annapolis Seafood Markets has oyster stuffing available in small quantities on a fairly regular basis around the holidays. If you are planning an event, call a couple of days ahead of time to guarantee your order. Of course, they also offer a wide range of party platters and fresh seafood for your entertaining needs.
Annapolis Seafood Markets has stores in Annapolis, Severna Park, Edgewater and Waldorf. For details, visit the Web site at www.annapolisseafoodmarket.com.
Chris couldn't share the recipe that Annapolis Seafood Markets uses for its oyster stuffing, but he said it is very close to this recipe for Skipjack Oyster Dressing from the Maryland Department of Agriculture's Seafood Marketing Program.
Inspired and more than a little hungry after my chat with Chris, I set out to make a batch. Intrigued by the concept of "fruity" oysters, I passed over the Chincoteagues for locals. And I really enjoy the extra depth that hot sauce adds to oyster stew, so I substituted a generous splash of Frank's RedHot for the mace. I didn't have any mace in my spice rack anyway.
Since I didn't have a turkey, I baked the stuffing in a 2-quart casserole dish for 1 hour at 350 degrees. I had it covered for the first 30 minutes - there's nothing worse than dry stuffing - but there was plenty of moisture.
Wow. Rich and decadent is the only way I can describe this dish. There was a dominant oyster flavor, but certainly not overpowering. And yes, Chris' description of fruity was very fitting.
It's easy to see why this food tradition remains popular.
SKIPJACK OYSTER DRESSING
From the Maryland Department of Agriculture, Seafood Marketing Program
2 large stalks celery
1 medium onion
1/2 cup (1 stick) margarine or butter
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon lemon and pepper seasoning
1/8 teaspoon mace
1/8 teaspoon tarragon
1/8 teaspoon poultry seasoning
1/2 teaspoon lemon juice
1 pint shucked Maryland oysters, with liquor
8 slices day-old bread, cubed
Finely chop celery and onions. Saute in margarine or butter until tender. Mix in seasonings. Add oysters with liquor and simmer until edges of oysters just begin to curl. Remove from heat and gently mix in bread cubes. Adjust moistness with water as desired. Makes about 4 cups dressing (allow about 1/2 cup per pound for fish; 1 cup per pound for poultry).
Note: For an extra-special tangy taste, core and finely chop 2 medium apples and add with celery and onions when cooking. Yield will increase about 1/2 cup.
For a brochure with more recipes, send a self-addressed, stamped envelope to: Maryland Seafood Holiday, 50 Harry S Truman Parkway, Annapolis, MD 21401, or call the recipe request line at 888-841-5828 or visit: www.marylandseafood.org.
